Thursday, July 3, 2014

On the Road Again 2014 #9

My final night's sleep on the train was perhaps the best one I had had. Or perhaps it was just that I didn't mind being awake at 5:00. I had enjoyed the trip, but I was anxious to get off. I knew I had another six or seven hours of traveling to do and I wanted to get on with it. Fortunately the train had managed to make up the hours it was late and according to my schedule, we were going to get into the Vancouver train station on time, or perhaps even a bit early. That meant that I would have no problems making the bus/ferry/bus connections. I spent the last few hours on the train looking out the window at the Fraser River with its log booms tied up to the shore and its current raging down towards the sea. I have always enjoyed looking at the Fraser River

I am always surprised at how quickly trains get to the center of a city. One moment it seemed as if we were in farming country and the next we were in the dirty industrialized core of the city. When one enters a city by bus, it seems to take forever, but by train it feels as if it takes but moments.

The train had a lot of cars. In Winnipeg it had been a surprisingly long walk along the tracks from where we got off to where the stairs were. Some of us had noticed that while the economy passengers had had this long walk, the train had stopped so that the sleeper class folks had not. We just assumed that it was another example of the class system on VIA Rail. However in Vancouver, the engineers "parked" the back half of the train near the stairs, disconnected the 4-5 front cars and moved us to another part of the track closer to another set of stairs. It meant that we did not have to walk so far. That was a nice touch!

I had not checked my pack so there was nothing keeping me at the station. I walked out the big doors and across the park to the Sky Train Station. Each station has a telephone connected to some helpful people who told me which train to get, where to get off and where to find the bus to Horseshoe Bay and the ferry to Nanaimo. I had to wait 7-8 minutes for the next train, got off a few stops towards downtown, walked around the corner, got on the express bus to the ferry terminal, got off the bus and walked on to the ferry. After the one hour and forty or so minutes ferry ride, I walked out of the terminal and got on the bus to Duncan. It was that easy. Of course being a Saturday, the traffic was very light in Vancouver. Otherwise I would have not made that ferry.

What I had thought might take me all day only took four or five hours. There was no fuss, no waiting around, no fears about missing a connection. By far the hardest part of the entire journey from Sudbury to Duncan was the walk from the bus terminal to my son's house. The 20 minute walk just about wiped me out and reminded me that I was not yet in shape to hitchhike. In spite of that realization, I arrived in Duncan with a sense of - if not failure, at least a sense that I did not somehow "deserve" to be on the West Coast. It had just been too easy. I had met some nice people and had had some of the best conversations I have had in years.  Any one who had ridden VIA Rail in the economy class knows that it is not the easiest way to travel - but it is easier than hitchhiking. I suppose part of me missed knowing that I had had put myself at risk - just a little bit and that I had survived. Another part of me just does not like being like everyone else.

Wednesday, July 2, 2014

On the Road Again 2014 #8

 As the train got busier, so did the Dome Car. In fact it got so crowded after Edmonton that there was no room for me. After using it occasional, but whenever I wanted for a day and a half as a second place to sit, it was a bit irritating for folks to "hog" it for hours on end. As one of the long term "residents" of the train it felt as if I should have had some sort primary resident rights.

As soon as I got back on the train after our stop at Jasper (where I bought a 12 inch sub that would last me for both lunch and supper - I would have loved to buy a few apples but couldn't find a grocery store) I got to the Dome car right away and shamelessly hogged the last seat available for 2-3 hours. The first view of Rockies is always exciting and I did not want to miss it. Initially there was a problem with the coupling of one of the cars and we were stuck just outside of town for half an hour with no air conditioning. It was pretty hot in the glassed in Dome car. For awhile I had visions of the problem being not fixable and that we would get stuck in Jasper over night. However whatever the problem was - it got fixed. Once we got going there was lots to see and to admire. I was hoping to see a few animals but other than one bear in the distance I didn't see anything.

The train crew continued to, over the PA, point out the highlights. Unfortunately Mount Robson which is the highest mountain was covered with mist and so we could not see the peak, but there were certainly lots of other snow covered peaks to see. The train also slowed down beside Pyramid Falls so that we could all get a picture of what I think is the highest falls in the Rockies.

Behind me were  couple from Australia who were quite delightful - she a teacher, he an almost retired electrical engineer. We chatted a fair amount in the two-three hours I was in the Dome car. They were a wee bit left of centre politically and so we had a fair amount in common. We talked about (of course) the building of the railroad, nuclear power, railroads (and the lack of them) in both of our countries, the beauty of the Rockies and a thousand other bits and pieces people who are of an age and a value base can talk about. It was the kind of conversation that if we hadn't lived half a world a part would have made us if not close friends, at least comfortable companions.


One of the things that I learnt was that all of those broken and loose wires that trail alongside the train tracks were not made of copper, but rather steel, and that they were not hydro wires but telegraph wires. All of which explains why no one has bothered to recycle the thousands of miles of wire. With my Australian electrical engineer's help, I was also able to spot the dedicated microwave towers that controlled the switches.


By the time 7:30  or so rolled around I had had enough scenery watching and so I gave up my seat in the Dome car and went back to my regular seat. I was tired. The train was running almost two hours late. I was a bit anxious about the complexities of travelling though Vancouver and was hopeful not to get stuck there overnight. But then sleeping anywhere other than on the train was something to look forward to.

Monday, June 30, 2014

On the Road Again 2014 # 7

A common topic of conversation on the train is whether it is late or early. Those of us who had collected a schedule tried to keep track of the towns we were passing through and regularly kept our fellow passengers informed. Those travelers who used the trains on a frequent basis had some horror tales to share especially about traveling in winter when at least in one case the train was 18 hours late.

But most of the time, the majority of passengers in the economy class did not appear to care. In fact, while the train was quite frequently late arriving, it usually left the major stations on time. The most annoying part of the train being late is when one is waiting for it in the station. Once one is on, it does not matter. Unlike plane travel there are seldom connections to be made. However for those who are traveling in the sleeper or cabin cars, being late seemed to be more of a big deal. I not too sure why, perhaps they assumed that they had a right to be on time.

I spoke to two conductors about the late problem. They, I think, found it frustrating that the passenger trains were always treated as being less of a priority than the freight trains. They agreed with me that Canada needs to have a two track system, and that it will never happen until the government decides to support rail traffic as much as they support the highways system. I got the very distinct impression that the conductor in the sleeper cars was tired of people complaining.

I was very impressed with one of the VIA workers on the second part of the trip. He made sure that every single new passenger got the same introduction to riding with VIA Rail in terms of where to find things, safety tips etc. He was also very well organized.

Just before Edmonton he warned folks in the car that while a lot of people were leaving the train at the next stop, even more new passengers were going to get on. He was clear that people who had been spreading themselves out might have to go back to their original seats and that couples who had chosen to sleep in their own seats might have to sit beside each other for awhile.  As people started to get on the conductor did a great job of getting folks settled making sure that families got to sit together. When he could not arrange that, he informed them what his plan was and when they would get four seats together.

He was as efficient and organized in Jasper.  He was certainly the best I have ever seen in terms of managing space. I don't suppose that it is that hard to do except that he did with flair, grace and good manners. I was glad that he never asked me to share my space with any one.

It is a rather strange life the conductors live. I think they work six days away from home, two days off and then back on the road. It seemed to me that it would be hard to be married or have kids with that kind of schedule. For this one particular conductor, he seems to have solved part of the problem. He and his wife both work on the same train. He never said whether or not they shared the same rest periods during the trip. As a matter of fact there are numerous hours when neither conductor was present in the car. I don't have a clue where they disappear to.








On the Road Again 2014 #6

The first night on the train I came in contact with two older women who were playing crazy eights in the Dome Car. What attracted my curiosity was trying to figure out what their native language was. One of the women along with her husband had got on just past Sudbury and were in fact sitting cross from me. I thought they were French speaking. As they were playing cards, discussing rules they seamlessly switched back and forth between English and French. I thought that perhaps that there were no equivalent  words in French but then I realize that one was primarily speaking in French and the other in English - they clearly understood each other; they just preferred one language over the other. While I have known many people who would have been described as being fluently bilingual I have never seen two people who fit that definition better. I am in no position to know how good their French was, but their English was for the most part was accent free. The husband had a bit more of a French accent. What was really interesting was that both the husband and the wife worked on their find-a-word books - both in English.

The couple left at Edmonton I was sorry to see them go.

Not everyone I met is an interesting or as likeable. A Scotsman got on, along with his teenage daughter in Edmonton and left a few hours later at Valemount. I met up with him in the lower level of the Dome car. He was talking to a handful of young people rather bombastically. The first thing I heard him say was that he was amazed how many people had never seen the movie Braveheart. He later, when talking abut Pink Floyd, put people down by wondering what people had been doing with their lives because they did not know a specific song. He cited a number of things such as the fact that it has been proven that the Chinese had been the first non North Americans to visit the Atlantic part of Canada. The proof of this was how much the Inuit look like the Chinese! He mentioned a number of other "facts" equally as convincingly and I was quite sure equally as wrong. After he left a couple of people remarked that they had learnt more from him than they had in school. I guess if one yells loud enough you get to be right. I ignored the temptation to argue with him.

There were also two elderly ladies sitting a few rows behind me. All one of them did was to complain. While she did make it clear that she thought the young rail staff were not as responsive as they could have been, she reserved most of her complaints for her family and how they had done her wrong. The fact that her sister and her children had decided not to visit her was all their doing as she was generous to a fault. She reminded me of a close family relative. I am always surprised how loudly people talk about what seems to me to be pretty personal stuff. And to make it worse it was not even that interesting, just tiresome.

There were also the kids. Again I admire parents who can keep their young kids happy for a day and a half or longer in a relatively confined space. So many of the kids start off being perfect angels, well behaved and cute. But as they realize  that (1) it is difficult for their parent to control them if for no other reason then it is hard to yell at your kid in public and (2) the parent would rather not have the child crying all of the time, the behaviours become more and more annoying. Not all of the kids were like that but a surprising number were.

However these marginally contacts were minimal. Ninety-nine percent of the people are quite wonderful and I have enjoyed meeting them immensely.

On the Road Again 2014 #5

Thursday morning, just west of Edmonton. Another beautiful day riding an on-time train. Another night of less than adequate sleep. Oh to be able to stretch out my legs!!!!!!  But life could be a lot worse.

Had a really interesting evening's conversation yesterday. Directly behind me was a self trained IT guy from Saskatoon, about 28, very bright and interesting; across from him was a man who look about 25 but in fact was 31. He was a Ph.D who was working in a hospital doing research on some very advance MTI  technology. We talked for at least two hours about technology and how it was affecting life, the state of universities in the western world ( the IT guy knew nothing about academia and was surprised how much hard work went into getting a degree and then getting tenure - and of all the risks involved in terms of ending up with no job at the end of the process); we talked about the possibilities of living to a 1,000, the wonderfulness of TED talks, critical thinking and the need to have more people in the world who both like to problem solve and knew that they could be good at it. It was an extraordinary, broad ranging conversation that quite frankly only happened because we were bright, experienced and well educated in our fields and had the capacity to generalize knowledge to other fields. It may be hard to believe but in spite of our radically different backgrounds and education - we had a lot in common. At one point we were struggling with remembering a particular fact - the IT guy had his computer hooked up to his cell phone and was, I suspect the only person on the train that had access to Wifi - so he looked it up. As I noted to the other two - there were two of us with 19-20 of combined post secondary education but our discussion was incomplete until the "uneducated" IT guy helped us out with finding the information.

At some point the two other guys started to talk about computer and programing language etc.... I reminded them that for most of the world computers at best were just fancy typewriters and  that they were talking a foreign language as far as I was concerned. They smiled indulgently and continued on with their discussion of Mac processing speed.

As the train pulled up to Saskatoon (where they were both getting off) we shook hands and remarked on what a great conversation it was. Neither of them had met each other before, but would be nice to think that they will continue our conversation some other time.

While I am missing the randomness of meeting new drivers and hearing their stories....I have met lots of people on the train. When we meet in the Dome car or outside on our scheduled walks, we continue our conversations. When near seat mates reach their destination and leave the train, it feels a little bit like one has lost a friend.







 Oh to be able to stretch out my legs!!!!!!

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