My driver the previous night had suggested that the
Trans-Canada was about a mile from downtown Portage. Early Sunday morning, as I
trudged down the near empty streets, it certainly seemed a lot further than
that. Perhaps one day I will drive across the country and measure exactly how
accurate the estimates of some of my drivers are. Because they are in a
vehicle, I think they always underestimate distances.
There were not a lot
of cars on the highway - a fair number of trucks but not many cars. All of the
vehicles had had miles to build up their speed and it did not look as if any
wanted to stop. Still I put on my optimistic, hopefully benign-looking face and
settle down into what I assumed would be a long wait. However I was only there
for about 10 minutes when a pick-up truck stopped and the driver invited me
in. My new driver was a farmer heading
up the Yellowhead highway. That meant that I would be getting out at the same
spot as Cam, my previous driver, had offered to drive me to the night
previously. All things considered, I am glad that I had decided to get a good
night's sleep. I had not lost any time by staying in a motel, I had had chance
to eat something but most importantly, I had not had to spend the night
fighting off the ever-hungry Manitoba mosquito.
I have lost count of the number of times I have stood at
certain specific corners. Certainly the intersection of the Trans-Canada and
the Yellowhead highway is a very familiar spot. I like it. There are stop
lights that slow some of the traffic down, there is, across the road, a gas
station where I could get water if I needed to and the shoulders are wide. What
more could I ask for? I don't think I was there for anymore than 20-30 minutes
when a transport truck slowed and then stopped for me. I was surprised in that
large trucks seldom stop once the driver has got through a number of gears - it
is just too much work for them. It may have been only the third or fourth time
that a truck has stopped for me on the open highway.
Francois had just
started driving in Winnipeg and was therefore quite sure that we would be in
Calgary by nightfall. In fact originally he thought we would be there by 5:30
or 6:00. Immediately I started to think about the possibility that I could get
as far as Canmore or perhaps even Golden by nightfall - especially as I would
go through two time zones and thereby gain two hours. My driver was from Quebec
and had done much of his driving within that province. When we were talking
about why he picked me up - he said it was because he wanted to practice his
English. His pronunciation of most words was very good, sometimes almost
without an accent, but he was insistent on struggling for the right word and
the right tense. Whenever he made a minor error he apologized - something that
after awhile became slightly irritating. As good as were his speaking skills,
his listening skills were not as refined. It made it difficult to have a
conversation as he frequently did not respond
to my comments. For example, at one point somewhere along the highway,
there was a small plane that was flying across the highway, then circling to do
it again. I mentioned to Francois that I thought it was illegal for a plane to
fly so low - he kept on talking about his truck. As the plane flew closer to us
I realized that it was spraying the fields. Again when I mentioned to my driver
what I had seen - he gave no response.
Because of his limited listening skills and/or my poor
speaking skills and in spite of the fact that I have lots of questions about
trucks and trucking, our conversations were somewhat one-sided. But we did have
long chats about trucks, dispatchers, the advantage of automatics (I suspect
that one of the reasons why Francois did not mind stopping after getting going
was that he was driving an automatic and therefore stopping and starting was
less of a big deal for him), the stupidity of car drivers and the equal
stupidity of governments who imposed limits on truck speeds (Francoise's truck was mechanically limited to 105 KPH -
the speed limit across the Prairies is 110 KPH). We talked about family, near
death experiences (Francoise had been clinically dead after an accident when he
was 19 and had to work hard to regain his speech and motor skills),
relationships, about freedom and about trying to do the right thing in a world
where the rules are seldom clear. It was an exhausting conversation in that I
had to listen very hard to understand what he was saying.
We drove together for almost 13 hours but I got out of the
truck in Calgary knowing less about Francois than many of my other drivers. I
think he was a complex man or at least his complexities were harder to grasp due
to our language barrier. He had been married - somewhat unhappily with his wife
frequently accusing (unjustly according to him) him of sleeping with other women while he was
on the road. They had four children together and I think he tried to be a good
dad - especially when the kids were teenagers and could understand why the
marriage failed. He certainly loved his kids and did the best he could given
his lifestyle. His life style, was to my way of thinking - terrible or at least
one that I could never live. He had a pick-up truck in Calgary that he was selling
the following day - he never used it. He had rented a room in Calgary and had
slept in only one night in the last month. He had decided to give up the room
as well. There was just no point in paying rent when he was just as happy
sleeping in the truck.
Perhaps the most surprising thing about my driver was that
he stopped twice for a meal. Truck drivers never stop for meals - at least not
in the middle of the day. I bought his lunch but not his supper. I was a bit
irritated in that the almost two hours we spent in restaurants meant that we
would not get into Calgary at a reasonable hour. I am not sure if stopping for
two meals was his normal routine or if he did it because he was enjoying my
company or at least the opportunity to practice his English. The place we stopped for supper was almost
closing and I am not sure initially how pleased the waitress or the cook were
when we entered. But he was a charming man and flirted his way into their good
graces. It was hard to stay angry at him - even when he ordered dessert in both
restaurants. I just wanted to travel!
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